Evaluative Report

Luxury, beauty, refinement, sensuality, elegance -silk is synonymous with all of these qualities. Silk fabric has unique properties. Silk - a whole culture, the history of which more than one millennium. It was praised for his life and gave great wealth, studied it and want to get the great rulers of antiquity. And today silk became available to almost everyone, from what has not lost its value, relevance and appeal. I chose silk as  a silk production was of great importance. I noticed that some authors were describing and compare  their love and women with silk. The power and beauty of this material inspire them.

 Preparation of silk has interesting stages that attracted me.  Silk is one of the most expensive materials.In my research I tried to find a lot of information about ways of silk production, the ways of use, history of it, types of silk and making process.

Also I found about healing properties of  spider silk, they way of recycling spider silk about the use of silk in military affairs and knitting methods.  Tried to make it to each by a few.   After I did research about oriental silk carpets.  The technique of sewing carpets. During the holidays I went to carpet museum in my country and I admired my ornaments, which tells the history and culture.

In my blog I am telling about famous and unique silk shawl which we produced in Azerbaijan in the small city Sheki where there are a lot of silk fabrics. To get more information about it I found out some open workshops stores where they produce this shawl. After my visits I understood how delicate it is and got a great pleasure. I admired by people who were doing everything by hand and work hard without any new technologies. I began to appreciate it all more.

From the fact that the number of workshops on silk getting less it  was hard to find any workshop in process. But it makes more curious about it. Also it is not easy to find reliable information from workshops, natural ink, natural silk fibers in such old places. The most problematic thing was to find anything about silk shawl kalagayi , there was not any web information about such ancient thing.

And I still regret they could not take a picture in some places where were not allowed. This ancient places and traditions make us look at the world differently.

Silk has different meaning  and  function in different cultures, I wish I could visit such places a lot. It is a great pleasure to do what you enjoy and I enjoy it much. The most experience I got in those places full of natural dyes of plant, different ornamental wood cast which made of pear, walnut trees. The most important thing is manjilig. This is a hand machinery uses to decorate kalagayi. Also I heard some fact and myths about silk and about instruments. I learnt about new plants like zirinj, sumag, dog-rose, wild rabbit apple, narinj, nazbitki which used in the difference color and shades.

 For further projects I should improve more in doing something myself, maybe testing materials dying them or pattern making. More experimental and more practical research.For this project mostly I gained information from books, web, workshops, museums and collecting leaflets from museums and shops. But mostly for research I prefer going to such places, communicate with people. It helps more than web search.

Feedback from other   help me to do everything in a right way and inspired  me to do research and you are more organize. 

“Trust me - Silk”
― David Eddings

Bibliography.

1.    Seki Kelagayisi(2011) Sheki city.Baku: Indigo

2.    Vidadi. M. (2005)Beslesen Ipek olar. Baku : Sedef

3.    biysk.ru (2010) [ Online]. Available from: http:// www.onsilk.ru/legend
www.biysk.ru/~karman/mat_vol_nat_chelk_legenda_chelk.htm

4.    superstyle.ru (2009) [ Online]. Available from: http://superstyle.ru/19jul2007/silk_

5.    mt-handels.eu (2011) [Online]. Available from: http:// www.mt-handels.eu/rus//hist

6.    youtube.com (2013) [Online]. Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyFc2FhIDP4&feature=player_detailpage 
7.    texeresik.com (2012) [Online]. Available from: https://texeresilk.com/article/silk_information_dictionary
 8.    Mary S. (2007) Silk. USA: Yale University Press

99.    Phillipa S. (2004)The Book of Silk. Singapore: St John’s Press

10.Mary J.P. (2001) Silk and Secrets.UK: Signet

Notes from lecture

Textile use - functionality

In synthetic raw materials, function is frequently added or embedded at the polymer stage through microencapsulation(the process of enclosing chemical substances in microcapsules). These functions are more durable.

For natural raw materials it is added at the yarn or fabric production stage, print etc. are added at the finishing stage.

UV Protection:

- SPF factors and ratings can be incorporated in to fabric dyes, fibres and laundry detergents. Tighter weaves and heavier weigh

ts of fabric offer more protection.

Fire and Spark resistance:

- For emergency services, military and industrial clothing and nightwear for children, 

- Carpets and upholstery must also be protected.

- Aramid, glass, carbon and wool fibres have some natural resistance.

 

 Impact resistance:

-Military, active sports and upholstery textiles.

- Branded aramid fibres of Cordura and Kevlar lead the way.

-  Protective against ballistics.

Weatherproof treatments:

- 100% cotton and pure wool can be naturally water resistant depending on the fibre type and construction of the fabric.

- Breathable laminates such as Gore-Tex are lightweight and breathable.

- Essential for outdoors sports clothing and equipment.

 - Intelligent solutions and nano-technology play a part.

 - Very tight plain weave construction.

 

 

Moisture management:

 - Working closely with weatherproof and thermal regulation areas. Important for sportswear, underwear, socks and shoes, bed linen and sports equipment.

 - Keeping skin dry.

Temperature regulation:

 - Keeping warm and staying cool.

Buoyancy and inflatables:

 - Can save lives and protect the body against sudden impact.

Antistatic protection:

 - Static electricity can cause minor discomfort or serious fires or explosions.

 - By adding a metal content to a fabric, danger can be reduced.

Reflective textiles:

 - Providing safety through higher visibility at night.

Refractive textiles:

 - A biomimetic colour shift property originally found in a hog berry plant from South America.

-Multiple layers of cells interfere with light waves as in a soap bubble.

- Morpho butterfly wings are another similar biomimetic inspiration for fibres that show colour through photonics- light interfere.

Phosphorescence:

 - Fibres trap and store energy from light and emit it as a glow.

- Non-toxic and can be incorporated into most synthetic fibres. 

- Permalight uses zinc sulphide and is commercially available as a print inc.   

Fibre optics:

 - Plastic optical fibre carries pulses of light along its length, powered by a small battery. It is a flexible, transparent fibre made of high quality plastic, slightly thicker than a human hair.

Easy care:

 - Treatments that assist in keeping a garment clean and reduce the time spent.

Comfort and ease:

 - Comfort, fit, ease of movement and crease recovery are conveyed by stretch fibres.

Aromatic agents:

 - Smells have the power to drive emotions and spur memories.

 - Scented textiles release aroma when agitated or warmed.

 - Microencapsulation traps the scented particles in the fabric. 

Antibacterial protection:

 - Antibacterial fibres and finishes assist in protecting the health of the user.

 - Useful in textiles fro underwear, bedding, footwear, sports, medical and catering products.

Insect repellency:

 - Fabric treatments can assist it in reducing the harmful effects of insects such as dust mites, particularly in bedding.

Catalytic clothing:

 - Fibres and finishes can assist in reducing harmful effects of air pollution.

Health and cosmetic benefits:

 - Treatments assist moisturizing skin and delivering active health benefits.

Conductivity:

 - It is an essential element in interactive textiles.

Monitoring and health:

 - Medical monitoring through smart garments is possible.

 - The lifeshirt can relay and record vital signs data by sensors in garments.

Monitoring and sports:

 - Monitoring through smart garments is also used in sports.

 - Allows real time interaction through activity.

 

Notes from lecture.Sustainability. Principles of Design

Meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.
The three pillars of sustainability are:
- Society- people
- Economy- profit
- Environment- planet

Sustainabiluty principles:
- Design to minimize waste.
- Design for recycling/upcycling.
- Design to reduce chemical impacts.
- Design to reduce energy and waste use.
- Design that explores clean/better technologies.
- Design for ethical production.
- Design to replace the need to consume.
- Design that looks at models from history and nature.
- Design to dematerialize and develop systems and services.
- Design activism.

 Ingeo fibers, the world's first commercially viable synthetic fiber derived entirely from renewable resources. Ingeo fibers combine the comfortable wear and feel of natural fibers such as cotton, wool and silk with the ease of care and specialty performance of synthetics. To make Ingeo, plant starches (such as corn) are broken down into natural plant sugars. The carbon and other elements in these natural sugars are then used to make a polymer,called NatureWorks(tm) PLA. The development and manufacturing of PLA polymer relies on basic fermentation and distillation as its core chemical process, followed by simple polymerization. Once the resin is converted into a fibre, it becomes Ingeo. 

 - Where sustainable environmental performance and corporate social responsibility are being added to the factors by which a company is judged.
- Where product styles are becoming increasingly out of date, in the disposable throw away society we all inhabit.
- Where manufacturing is moving away from EU and jobs are being lost.
- Where profit margins are being reduced.
Processing:
 - Industrial processes using fabric chemicals in fibre, fabric manufacturing and finishing which are harmful to operatives and the product users.
- EU legislation has improved the local situation but apply less strict rules in low cost manufacturing areas.
- The supply chain monitoring by brands is improving but transparency is difficult in countries where the outsourcing is widespread.

Energy and effluent:
- Energy and water are used largely in a textile product’s lifecycle.
- Untreated water drainage contaminates and releases toxic pollution. Strict legislation in EU areas has improved the situation.
- Minimizing water use and introducing water- less treatment is important.
- High energy use is expensive and polluting. Local waste and resources can be used.


Water pollution:
 - A report from ‘Dirty Laundry’ that outlines the problem of toxic water pollution as a result from the released chemicals by the textiles industry in China.

- It focuses on two facilities that were discharging a range of hazardous and persistent chemicals with hormone disrupting properties. The results show a wider problem that is causing serious and immediate threats to our ecosystems and human health.

Ethical production:
- What is good for the planet is also good for the people.
- It is benefiting both the textile production and social factors.
- It is more difficult to regulate issues supporting by the textile manufacturing in low production areas.
- Banning certain practice such as child labour is not a solution. Improvements must take account of local customs and traditions. 


Production:
- Innovative methods of fabric and product manufacturing can address sustainability issues by reducing the number of processes and localizing manufacture.

The History of Silk and Silk products

More than three thousand years, China has kept the secret of this amazing material , and any attempt to remove cocoons of the country is punishable by death . According to legend, only in 550 AD two wandering monk in their staffs gouged a small hole where and hid silkworm larvae . Since silk was in Byzantium.In India, silk appeared thanks Tricks Indian king , to woo the Chinese princess and as a dowry demanded mulberry seeds and silkworm larvae . Unable to deny the groom , princess hid seeds and larvae in hair and exported from the country.Greater demand for silk from Europe was the beginning of the Great Silk Road . Appeared in the Roman Empire , silk was so expensive that valued its weight in gold, and was often used as currency in trade, and was allowed to wear it only very rich people . Emperor Julius Caesar showed his power so that the triumphal entry into Rome ordered to pull on precious silk cloth awnings .In Europe, flowing and gentle to the touch silk clothing valued not only for their beauty and durability , but also for other equally important quality - it not start insects hassled at that time even the nobles , not sin overly neat .In the 15th century in France, bed lovers were made silk fabrics - it was believed that silk love multiplies force. But the fashion of silk underwear for the first time introduced the notorious Marquis de Pompadour.Weightless finest silk is prized for its unique properties and has long been surrounded by an aura of mystery . At all times, people admired the silk production . And to this day , this " light as a cloud " and " clear ice " tissue is considered an attribute of good taste and luxury.

Interesting fact
 Silk thread has a truly awesome strength, it can withstand a lot of pressure and very strong to break . Tear silk thread is not inferior to steel in the same diameter, and not so long ago, it was found that 16 layers of silk withstand a bullet from a Magnum 357 ( with lead core ) .In the products of silk dust mite does not start . This property shall silk sericin . Sericin (from Lat . Sericum - silk) , silk glue , sticky silk protein . Most of it is washed away during processing ( washing ) of silk in hot water , but what remains is enough for what would withstand the appearance of dust mite . Due to this property , silk hypoallergenic and recommended for people suffering from allergic reactions to house dust mite .Distinguish silk from non- natural , you can use test " for burning ." As in the case of wool from the burning silk unpleasant smell , and if you remove the source of fire , the material ceases to burn, and then the string itself crumbles to ashes.In bleaching silk should be very careful - it can dissolve , but the whiter the thread , the silk is cleaner and better.
 

The Dictionary of silk

https://texeresilk.com/article/silk_information_dictionary

Silk in poetry

Be in my hands heavenly silk,
Intricate light of the sun and the moon, Clear, dim or dark silk
Starless night, sun and moon,
I would silk spread out at your feet,

But I - poor, and only my dreams,
And I have spread my dreams under your feet,
Go easy, you tread on my dreams ...

William Butler Yeats, from the source, "He dreams of celestial silks"

Legends about silk.

1.First secret of silk manufacture was discovered in China five thousand years ago .An ancient legend says that once the 14 -year-old Xi Ling Chi, the third wife of Emperor Huang Di , who was also called " Yellow Emperor " in the garden of the palace under the crown of the mulberry tree and drank tea in her cup of tea from the tree fell silkworm cocoon .Young Empress and her maids were very surprised to see how hot water cocoon began to unfold , releasing a thin silk thread . Intrigued , she began to observe the unfolding of a cocoon .Si Ling Chi was so impressed by the beauty and strength of silk thread that attracted thousands of them cocoons and woven clothes emperor .So tiny butterfly silkworm silk gave all mankind , and the Empress , in gratitude for such a valuable gift was elevated to the rank of a deity.

 

2. " According to one legend, the beautiful , the larvae of the silkworm came from China due to Bukhara ( here it is, feminine guile !) Chinese princess .Princess was probably much in love with her ​​fiance , the ruler of Bukhara, just decided to give him a gift .It is not enough that she risked their lives like any ordinary smuggler !
Unpleasant and quite moving larvae were hidden in a complex and sophisticated wedding hairstyle Chinese princess .Can you imagine getting married with maggots in their hair as a decoration ! Just a horror movie.Show me a woman who is without a shudder of disgust and will make the IS with his head! Oh, the great power of love! "

3. 
Uzbeks have its own version of the origin of silk.  

In one version of the ancient legend , the origin of silk was associated with Joby prophet ( peace be upon him ) . An old legend says : Satan burned the house Jobe . Wife had nowhere to cook and nothing to feed her husband. To buy bread, she cut and sold her beautiful long hair . Shaitan went on to mock the righteous man , calling his wife ugly . Jobe patiently endured devilish mockery . Then Satan sent down worms, have covered the body Jobe and his wife , but again only Jobe thanked God for the fact that they are still alive . God created source Chashma Ayub ( holy place in Bukhara ) , commanded Jobe and his wife bathe in it and said that if the last throw worms into the water, their wishes come true . Jobe threw the first worm into the water with the words : "Be cotton ." Threw the second , saying : "Be the silk ." Threw the third and said, "Be holy water , heal others ."